Paris — Y/Project has canceled its spring 2025 shows after announcing Friday the departure of its artistic director of 11 years.
According to a tentative calendar released by the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion in July, the brand was scheduled to present a runway show on September 29 at 8:30 p.m.
The French brand canceled its upcoming shows following the sudden announcement of the departure of longtime creative director Glenn Martens. The restructuring comes after the death of the label’s co-founder, Gilles Ellerouf, last June. His brother, Daniel, is believed to have inherited a stake in the brand as the company enters a period of transition.
Y/Project was forced to miss the fall 2024 runway season to focus on internal investments, but was scheduled to return in spring 2025.
However, that withdrawal is not the only last-minute change.
Ludovic de Saint-Sernin, which showed in New York last February as part of a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation and was expected to return to the runway on September 29th, has also been removed from the calendar.
Other changes include the cancellation of Benjamin BenMoyal’s September 25th show and Gaucher’s show will be presented on September 26th rather than as a runway show.
Rabanne remains on the calendar, with longtime designer Julien Dossena scheduled for 5 p.m. on Sept. 25, even though the Puig-owned brand is undergoing a management shake-up.
Two major brands will show without creative directors: Chanel will show at 10:30 a.m. on Oct. 1, despite being designer-less following Virginie Viard’s sudden departure in June. Dries Van Noten will hold its first women’s show without its founder on Sept. 25. The namesake designer retired in June, and his studio team will create the women’s spring 2025 collection.
But for Paris show-goers, there are plenty of big names to keep an eye on, and one of the highlights of the week is the return of Gabriela Hearst, who showed her Spring 2021 collection in Paris on September 30th.
New to the official schedule is Niccolo Pasqualetti, one of eight finalists for this year’s LVMH Prize and who has shown off the schedule for the past two seasons, on September 29 at 11:30 a.m.
Another brand that was off the calendar but has now been added to the official schedule is Alain Paul, by designer Alain Paul, who has 10 years of experience working for brands such as Vetements and Louis Vuitton, and showed solo in October last year.
Former Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele’s debut at Valentino, where he will hold his first runway show at the Rome fashion house on September 29th, is set to be one of the most anticipated shows of the season.
Other notable brands not on the calendar include Givenchy, which missed its men’s runway season while it waits to announce its next creative director; Marine Serre, who presented her women’s and men’s collections as guest designer at Pitti Uomo in June; and independent design duo Victoria Feldman and Thomas Berzins, who are closing down operations of their Victoria/Thomas label to focus on collaborations and other design projects.
Off-White has relocated to New York this season, Eve Kamara’s latest collection is due to be presented on Sunday, and Avellano will also be sitting out the season.
The week kicks off with appearances from some of the hottest young artists, including Weinsanto, Preciato and Vaquera, among others, in shows scheduled for September 23rd.
The official calendar features 106 presentations and runway shows. As per tradition, Louis Vuitton will officially close Paris Fashion Week on October 1, but Coperni will host an “experiential” event later that evening in Fantasyland at Disneyland Paris.
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